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Some notes and mild rantings from Paul:
All Vineyard designate, and all Syrah. A minimalist by nature, these wines should be an expression of vineyard, soil and climate with as few winemaking tricks as possible. I strive for balance, character, and I absolutely do not believe that “bigger is better” and try to maximize flavor without the alcohol reaching elevated levels. I am trying to make wine…not malt liquor. The winemaking is fairly consistent throughout; minimal handling, gentle de-stemming, cold soaking, no fining or filtration, predominately French oak and no more than a third new oak used. The result is an honest Syrah that has the mark of its’ origin intact.
Fenaughty Vineyard
El Dorado County, Apple Hill District.
Owned by Ron Mansfield. Planted at 2800’ elevation in deep volcanic soils on own rootstock. We source from both the old vines as well as the younger ones. Since the subsoil is exposed, the young vines seem to give just as much character as the old vines, although the berries are slightly larger, yet with equal concentration. We’ve been sourcing fruit since ’01 (although our first commercial release was 2002). This Syrah has tendencies towards blackberry, coffee bean and cocoa powder (at sometimes almost resembling a café Mocha that has had a few berries thrown in it). Syrah from this vineyard tends to be very long lived with some of the best examples made by Steve Edmunds of Edmunds St. John (go ahead, look him up. He makes nice Syrah too).
Sapphire Hill Vineyard
Russian River Valley.
This is a truly unique piece of land with an unlikely choice of variety to plant. When all your neighbors are planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay its only the adventurous who decide to disregard the trends and plant Syrah instead. We source this fruit from a tiny one acre block planted with the Shiraz clone of Syrah. Gently sloping towards the south (a must for Syrah in this cold climate) half of the vineyard has a shallow clay layer at the top as it slopes down into an old creek bed at the base where the sandy creek-bed soils are exposed. This difference in soils contributes to this wines multifaceted personality. The Shiraz clone tends to impart a warm blueberry/blackberry note on the tip of the tongue while the soils and cool climate contribute to the expressive aromatics and smoky black tea notes as well as the firm, underlying acidity.
Zayante Vineyard
Western Santa Cruz Mountains (above Felton)
Owned by Greg Nolton and Kathleen Starkey. McDowell clone at 900’ Elevation in alluvial over sandstone. This is a very special place for two reasons: first, the amazing view. Second, its probably one of the few places west of Skyline that can not only ripen Syrah evenly, but Grenache too! Showing the more Northern Rhone side of Syrah, the aromas of sautéd shitake mushroom (as well as a slight reductive note that seems to blow off after a few minutes…hey, it is Syrah after all), coffee bean and coriander lead you to a balanced palate that seems to hide its weight well, while displaying layers of modest dark fruits, dried porcini and allspice/clove on the lingering finish.
Centanni Vineyard
Napa Valley, Calistoga (within the currently proposed Calistoga AVA)
Owned by Ray Centanni, local pastor and Stained glass artist responsible for some of the most beautiful stained glass works you’re likely to find anywhere in the world. A tiny two acre vineyard tucked between two gently rolling hills at the southern end of the proposed Calistoga AVA, just off of the Silverado trail. Planted to 877 in deep alluvial soils with heavy clay, which is reflected by the expressive nose. The warmest of the sites we work with as this is one of the warmest spots in the Napa Valley. This warmth is reflected in the wine as well as the opulent fruit seems to jump from the glass. Intense dried Cherries poured onto chocolate cake (no, its not for dessert) then leads to mocha, cedar and allspice on the fairly easy finish. Because the vines are still quite young, (this vintage is the fourth leaf) the wine doesn’t quite reflect the terroir of the sub-soils yet, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t fun to drink!
Nelson Family Vineyard
Santa Cruz Mountains
Owned by Gerry Nelson. At 1600 ft. elevation, this will be one of the highest elevations that you’ll find a vineyard in the cool western Santa Cruz Mountains, and one of our latest vineyards to come in. We source from a tiny block that faces southwest on a steep slope that levels out at the bottom. The subsoil is exposed in this block, with large chunks of broken sandstone and old ocean floor popping up in the vineyard. The hallmark of this wine: spice! This Syrah out of the fermenters has a greater resemblance to a spice cabinet than to wine. A pronounced black pepper and coriander nose lead to a mouthful of black cherry, licorice, wet earth and more spice than Martha Stewart’s spice rack. Because this fruit is sourced from a high elevation in a cool climate, as well as it having a higher acidity than most California Syrah, this wine will often be mistaken for Hermitage…and I’m okay with that.
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